I managed to pick up a cold virus last week and have spent a few days feeling very sorry for myself and using up far too much of my precious toilet tissue on my disgustingly runny nose. Which you really needed to know. But I'm feeling mostly better now, just a bit bunged up. It's years since I last caught a cold, I blame the change in climate and environment for succumbing.
Among the things that I brought with me to Koraput was a cricket bat and a couple of tennis balls. We had played a game of cricket in the Lodi Gardens in Delhi on our last day of In Country Training. This was the first time I had ever played cricket in my life and I don't have any talent for ball-sports but we had great fun and lots of passing Indians joined in the game. This made me think that a bat and a couple of balls might be a good ice-breaker in Koraput.
On my spare day in Bhubaneswar between those long train journeys I found a sports shop and bought a bat and tennis balls which I decided were safer, cheaper and lighter than the real thing. I began to regret the addition to my luggage while I was lugging things on and off the train, whacking people's shins with the bat strapped to the side of my rucksack but it was worth it. They have proven to be very popular at the office, after sitting idle in a corner by my desk for the first couple of weeks with every visitor picking up the bat to examine it they have at last come into use. Every evening for the last week or so I've got to around 5:00pm and started thinking it's nearly time to go home when someone has poked their head round the door to say "Madam, cricket". I end up getting very embarrassed by my lack of skill at even managing to hit the ball let alone score runs but it's good fun. It gets harder every minute as the light levels drop, the ball getting almost invisible as it's covered in the red dirt and blending in with the colour of the ground. However, I have managed to catch someone out once. It will probably be the last time it ever happens.
As the light fades the bats come out of their roost and start flying over. There are small bats darting around and hopefully catching some of those pesky mosquitoes, similar to the bigger species I sometimes see at home in UK but there are also enormous ones with a wing-span of around 2 foot. I have no idea what species they are but they could get pretty scarey if they got too close, their bodies are around the same size as a medium size cat. One of these days I might be able to get a photograph of them but of course my camers is never to hand at the right time. What any photo attempt would look like is another matter with a combination of a high-flying moving object and very low light conditions combined with no tripod - if I ever manage to try they will probably be just one big blur. I've been told that they roost in a large tree next to the police station so maybe I should try to capture them there.
On my way home today I was accosted by a gentleman that I'd been introduced to last week at my next-door neighbours house. I had been in a hurry to get home as I needed the toilet (something I try to avoid using at the office, I am still not used to squat toilets and hate going into ones outside my own house with bare feet). But my newly found friend asked me to come with him to his house and I feel so safe in Koraput that I had no hesitation in accepting. Off we went down a red dirt road that I hadn't ventured down before to find his house and was introduced to his wife and daughter who brought me a glass of warm water, a plate of biscuits and a cup of tea. Very nice but I got more and more uncomfortable and had to make my excuses as soon as it was polite to to so.
Then on the way past another house that doubles up as a bakery the lady of the house spotted me and asked me in. This was another family that I had met last week, she had insisted that I take a couple of pretty red and gold bangles the last time I visited and she would have been very offended if I'd refused to come inside. All the women here seem to wear lots of bangles, even those doing heavy lifting and building work. It's especially surprising when you realise that most of them are made of glass and are pretty fragile. They are part of everyday women's clothing and it's seen as strange not to wear them. I'm told that red ones signify marriage. I never normally wear anything like this and it feels quite odd to have a couple of rings of glass on my wrist, my hand is so big compared to Indian womens' hands that there is no hope of ever getting them off again save by breaking them. So of course another cup of tea was in order. It's lovely to be made to feel so welcome and to start to get to know some of the local people but I was desparate by the time I finally managed to get home!
10 months ago
Hillary - I have been fascinated by your blog especially as I'm waiting to be offered a place by VSO. I was so engrossed that it was only my nose that reminded me that my latest attempt at preparing to fend for myself was busy burning in the oven! Never mind I've got plenty more time to practice!
ReplyDeleteI love the way you just seem to cope with all the hassle and I've started a note-book of hints and tips - thank you. I know your blog is about your experiences outside work but I'd love to hear about what you do, how your colleagues respond to you and if you feel you are achieving anything.
Thanks for your comment, it's great to see that I've managed to reach out beyond my family and friends.
ReplyDeleteI've found that the blog has helped me to cope with the hassle, making fun of daft things instead of just getting frustrated and miserable. I'll see what I can do to incorporate more about work into it, I just need to get a bit more settled first.
Keep me updated on your placement progress
Ah bats, funny things up close aren't they? They won't ever hit you their sonar is far to accurate. Just ignore them and they'll miss you. I know it is easier to say than to do when you suddenly sense something near you head instinct take over and you've swerved, or ducked.
ReplyDeleteCan't you find some quite place in the fields on the route home? What do field labourers do? Or is kopping a squat outside not acceptable? Better get those Kegel exercises going :)
Hi Hilary, have been following your blog for a while now with great interest. I have really enjoyed reading it and hearing of your experiences. I am also going to be doing a VSO stint, am going to Malawi in Feb 2010 for 2 years and although it is a different country, I am sure many of the things you are describing will be very similar to experiences I will be having. I am very excited about it all, have set up my own blog but am not using it yet, but will do when it gets nearer the time. Nikki
ReplyDeletehi Nikki, Great to get your message, good luck with the preparations. I'm sure you're right about similarities, most of the vols I've been in touch with seem to go through the same frustrations and feelings of being like some sort of alien, especially in the first few months! I look forward to reading your blog
ReplyDeletein answer to how the local labourers deal with needing a pee - the men just go anywhere, streets, fields, middle of the road, it doesn't matter. The women try to be much more discreet. Sadly little tree cover here now, most of the native woodland has long since disappeared so finding a hidden spot can be a challenge. But needs must!
ReplyDelete